This leaves me to some sort of conclusion already. If you want budget, 393 stroker crank, 351W rods, and 302 pistons 393. I am asking this because I have searched around on here alot and have never seen this mentioned. If I am wrong for thinking and asking this don't flame me like a :flamer: hotdog in a campfire. #4) I am not going put a slightly thicker head gasket into this equation but it MAY make a interesting pairing amongst the two. About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features Press Copyright Contact us Creators. #3) This seems like it is a very cheap way to lower the compression on our domed piston FE3's. #2) Is there a structural problem in doing this to our 10.0:1 pistons? What is immediately below our domes if they were machined off? Any ringland thickness should remain stock. #1) What will the compression ratio be if a person were to leave everything els stock and just cut the little dome off the piston? Nothing more, nothing less. O.K., some/most of you turbo people know that it is easier to tune your engine and use the lower compression ratios of like low/mid/high 8's to low 9,s, But if you want to do a higher compression like 9.5:1 or 10:1+ it is VERY important to get the proper engine tune VIA fuel management and timing and such to achieve this, especially if you are planning to run some mid to high boost levels (9-10 psi and upwards). It is much cheaper than buying new custom pistons and it will at least lower your compression ratio a little. Why can't I shave the dome off my 10.0:1 pistons and make them flat tops? I know that the compression will not be lowered by that much, but it will be better than 10.0:1 ( not that 10:1 is bad really ) but it would be all too easy to just take out my hi-comps and fly-cut the domes off. lol ) of a cheaper way to lessen the compression on my FE3 engine. We are using our Rottler F68A CNC machine to fly cut a set of Big Block Chevy JE pistons on one of our custom engine builds. Or you could take it to a shop that is has pleanty of knowledge in the Rat or splay valve engine build area.I have been thinking (I know LOOK-OUT!!!scary. If number is negative there is an optional step of pounding head against punch mounted in vise. Subtract the amount that you need to remove to make you happy and this will be the resulting end thickness. Record the measurements that you get in the area you are wanting to cut. It's cuts the notch wider, but it won't cut any deeper than the original relief. It's just like a valve with a cutter on the bottom. Walk your piston in between the indicator and the punch. I had almost zero clearance with this cam with AFR 2.02 valves. Make sure every thing is solid and repeats "0" when cycled. Position the indicator so that the tip touches the tip of the punch. You will need a piston "dome checker" or a the shade tree equivilant of a bench vise, long punch, and magnetic base mounted long travel dial indicator. These pistons can make a great foundation for a reliable engine! Just don't expect to fill'er up with 93 Octain and be happy! If the tech line can't help it is real easy to measure the thickness of the piston.
The time to do this is when they are out of the engine. Call Speed-Pro and tell them what you are wanting to do and they can help. No.No.! The point is to know match your components and get your combination outlined before you start.
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